Showing posts with label Middle Eastern. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Middle Eastern. Show all posts

Wednesday, August 8, 2012

Failing to Fast (and Panda Exposed)

It's been known for years, and mentioned more recently in BBC News, that fasting, or going without food for short periods of time, is actually good for you.  Not only does calorie restriction help you lose weight, but it has been shown to extend your life expectancy.  Researchers are now looking into the benefits of an Alternate Day Fasting diet, in which you eat whatever you like for one day, but have a very restricted diet the next, 500 - 600 calories a day depending on whether you are a woman or a man.

It doesn't actually sound too terrible.  Muslims around the world are currently fasting daily between sunrise and sunset, and they are not even drinking water in that time.  I had forgotten this fact until I returned to Holy Land Foods last evening, and saw the restaurant transformed.  There were bowls of dates on every table, and at the front of the room there was a veritable feast, with an assortment of Middle Eastern desserts on multiple platters.  "It's Ramadan," explained chef-owner Abrahim, as he smiled at the surprised look on my face.

An unbelievable amount and variety of desserts for Ramadan.

Now, I'd only meant to have a light salad for dinner, but I just couldn't resist trying all the new and unusual items on offer.  And so, in addition to the fattoush (فتوش), I ordered a selection of sweet treats: basbousa (بسبوسة), a warm semolina cake; qatayef (قطايف), a semi-circular dumpling filled with cream and sprinkled with nuts; and awwamat or awamat (عوامات), fried dough balls drizzled with sugar syrup.

Fattoush is a salad topped with crispy bread.  This one included cucumber, tomato, radish (I love radish!) and onion.

Basbousa, qatayef, and awwamat.
Apparently the latter literally means "buoys" in reference to the way in which these balls float to the top of the hot oil while cooking, and this is the term used in the Arabian Gulf.  In Egypt, they are called lokmet el adi or luqmat al-qadi (لقمه القاضى), meaning "judge's snack" (a light meal rather than the literal translation of "mouthful", according to blogger Coptic Dad and Mom.  It is a metaphor for judges being rich people who didn't eat the commoners' bread, adds the Naked Plate Blog.)  Despite the stories behind the name, my favourite dessert here is still the konafa (كنافة) which I praised in my previous post.

Holy Land also had a special menu for the month of Ramadan (today is day 19 already, and it only goes to day 30, so hurry if you want to try it!), with a set menu for each day of the week, three courses for $25 (choice of chicken or lamb for the main dish).  Abrahim saw me taking a picture of this menu, and asked if that was really what I was doing.
Me (guiltily): Yes.  Is that okay?
Abrahim: Are you the person who took pictures of our food and put it on the internet?
Me: Yes.  Uh-oh, busted.  Is that okay?
Abrahim (smiling): Of course. Thank you.  Thank you for doing that.
Phew!  With that blessing, I hereby present the Ramadan Menu at Holy Land.  Although I did not manage to have it last night, I can highly recommend the lentil soup they make.  There are a few other things I would love to try too.  And you can still order off their normal menu.  Just be aware that their opening hours are 3pm - 1am for this special month (maybe subtract an hour or so on each end to be on the safe side), before going back to 9am - 9pm after the end of Ramadan.

Ramadan menu at Holy Land Foods.

Monday, April 9, 2012

Review: Holy Land Foods (مطعم الأرض المقدسة) *CLOSED*

[Added 10 January 2013: I was excited to see that they had a new sign above their restaurant when I returned from Europe in October, but when I checked the other day, it was gone and the windows were plastered with newspapers...]

We've just come back from Holy Land.  No, we haven't made a pilgrimage overseas or done anything religious.  We've actually just had lunch at an Arab restaurant on K'Rd, a couple of doors down from the Lebanese Cafe and across the road from Coco's Cantina and Mister Morning.

Yam Yam Holy Land Foods doesn't look as classy or inviting as its neighbours.  Had it not been recommended by a workmate, we would probably a) never have found it, and b) not have had the courage to enter.  Run by two Jordanian brothers who worked as chefs in the Middle East, this eatery offers Arab food as well as Western meals such as pizza and pasta.  I'm afraid we've never tried the latter, as it just doesn't feel right to walk into an establishment with Arabic script everywhere and order something like a chicken and mushroom penne.  The rest of the menu was definitely exciting though.

Some dishes, like the hummus and vine leaves, are already familiar from the more numerous Turkish restaurants in Auckland.  The hummus at Holy Land was thick, with a strong tahini flavour and served with a drizzle of olive oil, the way I like it.  Other menu items included things I had never heard of before, such as the "foul medames" (فول مدمّس), a bean dish.

The hummus with beans came with a pita bread (half eaten before I could take a picture, sorry).
We didn't realise that the hummus dishes came with a round of Lebanese bread, though perhaps we should have guessed.  We ordered a garlic bread as well, and we were glad that we did, because this flat naan-like bread arrived hot and fresh, tastier than the drier and thinner pita bread.

While we are on the subject of bread, Holy Land has a "Mini Pizza" section on their latest menu, which isn't necessarily what you might imagine at all.  As the pictures show, some are bread rounds with toppings, while others are more like filling wrapped in bread.  This is what the spinach and onion one looked like:

Spinach and onion "mini pizza".
The menu has been revised since we first came here late last year.  I was glad to see that they managed to find a newer and less scratched non-stick dish for serving their kofta kebabs and shakshokah (شكشوكة, eggs poached in a sauce of tomates and spices) too. Nothing kills the appetite quite like the thought that you could be eating something toxic.

Lamb Kofta Kebab with tomato & bread.
Also on both the old and new menus was the kabsa rice served with chicken or lamb.  The meat looked like it had simply been boiled, but apparently it was actually very flavourful.  You might want to get a salad as well to help with your 5+ a day though.

Slow-cooked Lamb on kabsa rice.
New on the menu was the Barbeque section, offering a selection of skewers and grilled meats, served with rice, bread, hummus and salad.  We ordered the Mixed Grill so we could try a bit of everything.  The chicken and kofta skewers were very tasty, though the lamb chops were too salty and the coloured rice was more or less like plain basmati.  Overall a good choice.

Holy Land Mixed Grill.
Also new was the very tempting Desserts section, including the Turkish Coffee, which arrived sweet and strong in a little metal pot next to a tiny silver-gilded tea cup.  One of our group burnt his hand on the metal handle of the pot and gingerly tried to wrap a serviette around it.  The chef watched in amusement before removing the napkin and just picking up the pot and pouring.  Ah, the true mark of a chef, as proven by the thickness of the skin on his palms.

After stuffing ourselves with the delicious dishes and over-abundance of bread, we were ready to leave, but we couldn't help asking about the knafe on a poster on the wall, which was previously only on catering menu (like the whole or half lamb on rice).  It turns out this is the same as the konafa (كنافة) on the new menu, a creamy dessert sprinkled with vermicelli-like strands and rose water syrup, and served hot.  The chef insisted we try it for free, and we demolished the thing before I could get a picture.  This in itself is worth coming to the restaurant for.
 
More than half-eaten rose water konafa, a warm creamy dessert with syrup.
The new Barbeque and Dessert options are great additions to the menu, and the grouping of the dishes into sections works well, but I can't help wishing that we'd managed to try some of the items that have now been removed, things like lentil soup and Jordanian mansaf (منسف أردني).  [Added 8 August 2012: there items are currently available again on the ramadan menu.]  Maybe I shouldn't have raised my eyebrows at their "French Fries Sandwich" in my previous post, because all the sandwiches have now disappeared too.

I don't have much of a benchmark for Arab cuisine, but Holy Land serves varied food at reasonable prices.  I don't know too many other places that offer pan-fried lamb liver, and I still need to find out if their "hotdog" is really something other than expected, just as what is translated as "sour cream" is actually the lower-fat strained yoghurt cheese, labneh (لبنة).  In any case, we will be coming back for more.

Panda Recommends

Mezze: Hummus, with or without toppings ($5.50 - $11.00).  These are only appetisers if you share them with others.  The hummus fateh comes with bits of pita bread mixed in, whose soft squishiness may not appeal to everyone.
Mains: Holy Land Mixed Grill ($18.50), Slow-cooked Lamb on Kabsa rice ($15.00)
Dessert: Rose Water Konafa ($6.00)

Vegie Pandas
The Shakshokah ($9.00) is nice if a little underseasoned.  You can also have a range of salads and dips ($5.50 - $6.00), pizzas ($10.50 - $12), mini pizzas or pastries ($4.00 - $5.00) and desserts ($4.50 - $7.50).

Menu - page 1 (ignore the delivery part)

Menu - page 2
Restaurant Details

Holy Land Foods (مطعم الأرض المقدسة)
347 Karangahape Road, Auckland Central
(09) 379 9325
holylandchefs@yahoo.co.nz

Opening hours:
Mondays to Sundays 10am - midnight
[Added 8 August 2012: See updated hours in my more recent post]

Holy Land is on K'Rd, close to the Lebanese Cafe, Coco's Cantina and Mister Morning.


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Saturday, March 31, 2012

Sohan (سوهان) or Iranian Saffron Brittle @ Persian Network *CLOSED*

[Added 30 January 2017: Note that Persian Network closed several years ago amidst accusations of fraud]

There was an Iranian girl in my class at primary school.  She was loud and cheeky, and I didn't try very hard to get to know her, but I admired the flowing lines of the Arabic script on her plastic stencil ruler.  I didn't understand how she could tell the characters apart, because they looked nearly the same to me.  I also discovered that her language was called Farsi, not Iranian, and you write it from right to left.  That was the extent of my knowledge of her world.

And so it was that when I came across Persian Network, one of the many interesting shops on Dominion Road, I wondered why it was painted in the Italian colours of green, white, and red.  As you might have guessed, it wasn't becaused someone had confused Iranian with Italian.  When the tri-color stripes run horizontally rather than vertically, that is in fact the Iranian flag.

This shop isn't crammed full, but there is a good range of things for sale, from sweets, breads and spices, to rugs, trinkets and utensils.  As you can tell from their website, they are not dumbing things down for tourists like me.  Although there is an English label for most things, you need to use your powers of deduction to work out that the reddish powder labelled "dried nuts and fruits" is in fact sumac, and the box of confectionery made of sugar, egg whites, rose water and pistachios holds Persian nougat, or gaz (گز).

I decided to purchase a beautiful tin box containing what looked like crunchy biscuits, which the Iranian owner warned me would be very sweet.  This dessert, called sohan (سوهان) is essentially a brittle toffee made of wheat sprouts, saffron, flour, sugar, pistachios, butter, cardamom, egg yolks, and rose water.  Not unexpectedly sweet, but quite oily or syrupy.  Somehow, it manages to be crumbly and leave a chewy lump stuck to your teeth at the same time, an enjoyable mix of flavours and textures.

Sohan in a detailed and embossed tin.
From what I can see, I have purchased sohan qom (سوهان قم), which is primarily produced in the city of Qom and is a common souvenir from the place.  It is quite different from sohan asali (سوهان عسلي), a honey-based toffee usually with slivers of almond, which is a harder and shinier candy, often eaten for Nowruz, the Iranian New Year.  A variant of the honey-almond toffee is sohan konjedi (سوهان کنجدی), which instead has sesame seeds set in the honey and saffron translucent brittle.

Does anyone have a recipe for this delicious sweet, or shirini (شیرینی) which I have bought? The closest one I could find on the web is in this video from a TV cooking show, which makes use of honey and corn syrup in addition to sugar, but no egg yolks.  It also uses whole wheat flour instead of wheat sprouts, if indeed that was the correct translation.  According to this video of sohan qom production, the brittle shouldn't stick to your teeth either.

Whatever the secret, this is why I love living in Auckland, having the opportunity to taste exotic flavours from around the world without needing to leave the country.  I am looking forward to tomorrow too, not because it will be April Fools' Day, or because Daylight Saving will be over (yay for an extra hour's sleep), but because the Auckland International Cultural Festival will be on (bring on the Ethiopean, Croatian and Burmese food!).

Store Details

Persian Network
1/718 Dominion Road, Mount Eden, Auckland
(09) 623 0070

Persian Network is on the corner of Balmoral Road and Kensington Avenue.
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