Thursday, August 13, 2015

Sydney Sojourn: Tourist in a Supermarket

The other week, I found myself in Sydney for work, As you can imagine, when you spend all your daylight hours in the office, there is not a lot of sightseeing that you can do. I wandered the streets at night, and stumbled into the Woolworths opposite the Town Hall.


We used to have Woolworths in New Zealand too, but they were rebranded to Countdown years ago. This supermarket in Sydney was a complete shock for me, not just because of its prime central city location and different name (using the same logo as Countdown), but also due to its size and layout, and the kinds of things sold.

Like a Department Store

Up till now, I have never seen a supermarket which
  1. is spread across multiple (four) floors
  2. has a cafe (serving fish and chips and spaghetti, amongst other things) inside it
  3. offers a photo printing centre and internet cafe in a separate section
  4. includes a beauty counter with its own staff
  5. has a section selling books and stationery, where you can sit down
Beauty section of the supermarket, with a beauty bar counter.

Our supermarkets in New Zealand always seem to funnel you through the fruits and vegies before you can shop for anything else. Not so in the Sydney Town Hall Woolworths. Here, once you walk past the fresh flowers at the entrance, you see the Beauty section on one side, and discounted groceries on the other. To get to your produce, you need to take the escalator down to the basement.

Seats in the book section.

Queuing by Numbers

Even some of the more familiar sections of the supermarket were a bit different. The deli counter had trays of food behind glass and a friendly person to serve you, like the supermarkets I am used to. But you don't just signal one of the staff members and place your order. No, you must first take a number from the ticket machine, and wait for your number to be called. It's a fairer system, I guess, especially for people who aren't good at attracting attention, but it seems a bit over the top unless there are queues of people waiting.

Ticket machine and number display by the deli counter.

A similar process applies at the busy checkout area, though you don't have to take a ticket. Rather than waiting for shoppers to notice a counter has become free, Woolworths has implemented a more efficient system, with announcements like "Please proceed to register 8".

Checkout area with flashing numbers.

Supermarket-Branded Products

Our Countdown stores already have supermarket-branded items, but in Woolworths, they are even more diverse, for instance used on pre-packaged meals as well.

Homebrand Brand

The Homebrand brand is used for the cheapest items, often located on the bottom shelf in plain packaging. Nothing remarkable there.

Homebrand eucalyptus lollies, which look like the barley sugars we have here.

Select Brand

The Select brand is used for mid-range items. I often buy their crackers in New Zealand, but I was surprised to see the brand used for ready-to-cook packets of chopped vegetables too, including scalloped potatoes (complete with bits of raw bacon in a little plastic bag).

Select brand prepared vegetables.

This brand is also used for milk, free range eggs, packaged fresh herbs and vegetables, and desserts such as chocolate blocks, baked cheesecakes, sticky toffee date sponge puddings, and macadamia cookies.

Select brand permeate free milk.

Woolworths Brand

According to their website, this is actually the Fresh brand. From what I can see, it is used for the more interesting ready-to-cook dishes like crumbed eggplant, and prawn and potato lattice balls.

Woolworths branded crumbed eggplant.

It is also used for purely heat-and-eat meals, with macaroni cheese, beef tortellini, as well as Thai, Malaysian and Indian curries on offer. You can even buy accompanying sides like cooked jasmine or basmati rice, and potato or vegetable mash!

Woolworths branded curries and rice.

Some of these meals also featured the Emily's Kitchen brand in addition to the Woolworths one, offering items such as beef stroganoff with rice, or breaded camembert.

Emily's Kitchen breaded camembert with cranberry sauce.

Gold Brand

The Gold brand is printed in italic gold lettering on products that aim to be more fancy. I saw it used on a diverse range of goods, from chocolate...

Gold brand chocolates.

... to rainbow carrots...

Gold brand rainbow carrots.

... to cheese (like Oak Smoked Cheddar, Blue Stilton, Shropshire Blue), to free range sausages (with flavours such as Chicken, Rocket & Parmesan, or Spanish Style Chorizo).

Just a Logo

Some products displayed the Woolworths logo, but had no other wording. This included packets of Australian pork, beef or lamb, as well as more processed items like macadamia tarts.

Lamb packs with Woolworths logo.

Jamie

As if the selection of prepared meals wasn't large enough already, you can also buy products with Jamie Oliver's face looking at you from beneath the Woolworths logo. You too can feel like a celebrity chef, as you bake your boneless rolled chicken with chestnut, onion and sage stuffing, fry your one-pan brekkie with chipolota sausages, cook your Indian style cauliflower with minty yoghurt (looked like mainly raw cauliflower florets in the packet), or put together your RSPCA-approved chicken meal kits.

Jamie's  boneless rolled chicken with chestnut, onion and sage stuffing.

Exclusive Products

Finally, the Woolworths logo was prominently displayed on products available only at the supermarket chain. This included Houston's Farm salad bowls, as well as Arnott's three bean flavoured Tim Tams.

Three bean Tim Tams, only available at Woolworths.

I also saw a large Woolworths logo by the limited edition Snickers Rocky Nut Road bars, though it was less clear why. I found these chocolate bars for sale at The Warehouse in New Zealand too.

Snickers Rocky Nut Road with Woolworths logo.

Produce with a Twist

Apart from the supermarket-branded vegetables mentioned earlier, I was interested to see you could buy Australian grown galangal, custard apples, quinces, pawpaw and papaya, as well as Asian vegies like chokoes, bitter melon, okra, and wombok.

Lest you are feeling overwhelmed by healthy goodness, toffee apples have also been introduced to the fruit aisle, lying side by side with normal apples.

Toffee apples in the fruit section.

There was a length of shelving dedicated to plastic-wrapped organic produce. Turns out Macro is also a brand owned by Woolworths. I would have thought those who buy organic products would be the same people against overpackaging of food, but I guess this is the easiest way to make these more expensive items stand out from their non-organic counterparts.

Macro organic plastic wrapped vegies.

In the meat department, I was surprised to see turkey for sale (including drumsticks and leg roasts). In NZ, such items would only be found at the more gourmet stores like Farro Fresh.

Turkey drumsticks, turkey leg roast, burger patties, and jumbo packs of schnitzel.

Extreme Eggs and Dairy

There was a dizzying array of eggs to choose from, from supermarket-branded free range eggs to cage eggs sealed in a plastic sleeve. In New Zealand, you can choose size 6 or 7 eggs, or mixed grade ones, but the in Australia they seemed to come in large, jumbo or XL.

Cage eggs wrapped in plastic, and supermarket free range eggs.

You could also purchase powdered whole eggs, or egg whites in a carton, including a spinach and feta egg white omelette mix. Maybe that's where the smaller eggs end up.

Egg whites in cartons, along with "environmental" cage eggs.

The cheese selection was different from what I am used to too, with many kinds of feta, some in 1 kg tubs.

Lots of feta cheese.

I already shared a picture of supermarket-branded milk cartons earlier, but there were many other kinds of milk available, from Farmhouse Gold milk (which sounds the same as our Silver Top) at one end of the spectrum, to "no fat" milk at the other. There was also A2 milk (though marketing began in NZ, it did not take off here), lactose-free milk, "easy to digest" milk, HeartActive® milk, and the somewhat racist-sounding "smarter white" milk.

Milk alternatives and special milk.

For those not wanting to drink cow's milk, you can buy goat milk, as well as non-dairy milks like soy milkalmond milkrice milk, and coconut milk, all from the chilled section of the supermarket.

Frozen

In the nearby freezers, I came across Ben and Jerry's ice cream, Sealord hoki (specifically marked as "New Zealand Hoki", even though the boxes in NZ just say "Hoki"), and frozen gozleme, which I would love to be able to buy here.

Freezer goods.

The Health Trend

I was wondering why there were so many Macro branded products for sale, until I realised Woolworths bought the brand some years back. Entire shelves were dedicated to its organic raw buckwheat, white, red or tri-colour quinoa, chia seeds, and the like.

Macro branded nuts and seeds.

There were plenty of other products for the more health-focussed too, with many varieties of coconut water, nut shakes, vegetable juices, gluten free items, vegan mayonnaise, and raw nut and fruit bars.

The Snack Attack

At the same time, I have never seen such a vast array of highly processed snack foods for sale. I started throwing Tim Tams into my shopping basket, before I realised there were so many flavours I had not seen before that it was a ridiculous exercise. I finally settled on the three bean and peanut butter flavours (though the latter contains no actual peanuts), rather than the Adriano Zumbo range.

Lots of Tim Tam flavours.

I discovered you could get Oreos dunked in white choc, Cadbury sprinkles with little bits of Crunchie, Flake or Oreo, as well as Crunchies in biscuit form. I noted that their Hundreds and Thousands are made by Arnott's rather than Griffin's, and they have these biscuit sandwiches with marshmallow and jam called Wagon Wheels,

You can put your sweets in your yoghurt too.

Of course, there were plenty of savoury snacks too. They had flavoured popcorn, which had a round/mushroom shape and came in crazy flavours like sweet chilli and sour cream. Chips were made not only from potato, but also different types of sweet potato as well as beetroot. Even basic things like cream crackers were made strange their name: I would never have guessed what SAOs were.

Sweet potato and beetroot chips.

Tourist Trap

Evidently, I am not the only tourist who wanders into the Woolworths opposite the Sydney Town Hall, because there were lots of souvenir items for sale. You could buy kangaroo, koala, crocodile and wombat soft toys, as well as edible gifts like macadamia chocolates and biscuits, with pictures of cute koalas or the Opera House plastered across the box..

Crocodile, emu and kangaroo jerky.

I didn't need to buy any of these things though. Just a simple visit to the supermarket has been an eye-opening experience, and I felt I understood more about the city and the people in it.


Sunday, August 2, 2015

Auckland Diner's Diary: July 2015

International Flavours


Beers and Bites


Pop-Up Shops


Feel Good Factor


Coming Soon


Longer Plans


Events



Friday, July 31, 2015

Learning My ABCs (Asian Birthday Cakes)

Mainstream Western cakes that people bring to the office tend to be sweet, dense and moist—think the chocolate whisky cake from Rocket Kitchen, for instance. In contrast, Asian bakery cakes (which people tend to buy for special occasions like birthdays) differ in a few ways:
  1. they are light, soft, and airy
  2. they are less sweet
  3. they tend to have multiple layers
  4. they are covered in whipped cream
  5. they tend to have detailed, maybe even over-the-top, decorations
  6. bonus points for fresh fruit
  7. Asian flavours like taro, durian, mango, or green tea cakes are available

Fresh cream gateau from the Gateau House website.

While you or I could easily whip up a standard cake ourselves by following various recipes from a magazine or cookbook, not many people attempt to make the Western-style cakes* that are sold in Asian countries like Hong Kong, Korea or Vietnam (I was surprised to read this style of cake is also eaten in Mauritius.). Partly, I think it is because people in Asia don't tend to have an oven (they are more likely to steam cakes instead). But it doesn't help that there are not many recipes published for the cakes sold in Asian bakeries**, and they are often quite elaborate and challenging to make at home.

* I say "Western-style cakes" because traditional Asian cakes are a different beast, from the thick and dense mooncakes, to the chewy, steamed, bite-sized kuih.

** By "Asian bakeries", I mean bakeries similar to those you would find in Asian countries, not old-school bakeries that happen to be run by Asians.

There are now plenty of Asian bakeries in Auckland, including Gateau HouseLa Couronne, Classic Bake House, Well-done Bakery, and Rio Kitchen.

The "Sponge"

It turns out the part of the cake which I had always thought of as "sponge" is only sponge in the general sense, an umbrella term for foam cake. The particular kind of foam cake used in Asian bakery cakes is actually a reduced sugar chiffon. You'll end up with a lighter texture than if you used a standard sponge recipe anyway.

Type of Foam CakeEggsFatTextureOther Comments
SpongeWhites and yolks whipped separatelyNone (other than egg yolks)Firm, yet well aerated, relatively dry
GenoiseWhole eggsButterAiry, relatively dryRich flavour from butter. Less sweet than other foam cakes. Eggs are warmed before beating in sugar.
ChiffonWhites and yolks whipped separatelyOilMoist, light and springyRich flavour from oil. Often has added baking powder.
Angel Food CakeWhites onlyNoneDelicate, light and airyHighest sugar content to support egg whites.

There are all sorts of tips and tricks out there for baking chiffon cake, but the most important ones I found were:

The Cream

As you will see, the whipped cream topping was the part I struggled with the most. Freshly whipped cream tastes amazing, but I either overwhipped it and made it grainy, or it wouldn't hold its shape, and the cake looked like a mess by the time we went to cut it. No matter how hard I tried, my whipped cream did not have the amazing airiness and staying power of the commercial cakes.

I'm not sure what professional bakers use, but I wonder if it might possibly be an imitation whipped cream like Cool Whip or Pastry Pride, though I haven't seen these for sale in New Zealand, and I assume the flavour wouldn't be that great. The Cool Whip ingredients look pretty unappetising, with the main ones being hydrogenated vegetable oil and high fructose corn syrup, and containing less than 2% cream. Bakel's NZ has a new Easy Whip product that is made of dextrose, skim milk powder, vegetable oil, sugar, and stabilisers and emulsifiers. I guess that might be what you are eating if you buy something from those cheap, run-down bakeries.

Cool Whip Original ingredients from Kraft Brands website.

According to some posts online, whipped cream in bakeries holds up longer because it has a higher fat content, or has stabilisers added, such as pectin, xanthum gum or guar gum. Dr Oetker's Whip It product (available to home cooks in North America at least) contains dextrose, modified corn starch, and tricalcium phosphate.

You can achieve amazingly airy whipped cream by using canned whipped cream, as in Tatua's Dairy Whip. Nitrous oxide (N2O) is mixed into the cream and when pressure is released, foams the cream up to four times its liquid volume (compared to whipping by hand which only doubles it). Unfortunately, this whipped cream does not last long, and will go back to liquid form after 20 - 30 minutes.

Up until Lewis Road Creamery started selling double cream (48% fat) a couple of years ago, there was only one kind of cream for sale in New Zealand, with around 37% fat. I can't imagine bakeries making cakes with premium quality organic double cream, so I looked at what methods people used to stabilise their whipped cream:
Also, there's a buttercream recipe (fresh cream not needed) with rave reviews, which apparently has the texture of light whipped cream and is not too sweet. I'll definitely have to give this a go some time!


Cake Attempt #1: Chestnut Chiffon Cake

My parents gave me a bag of fresh chestnuts, so I decided to bake a cake with them in it. It really is a labour of love, because shelling chestnuts is a time-consuming exercise! Most recipes tell you to cut an X into the flat side, but I found it easier cutting a single slit along the rounded side of the chestnuts.

Shelling roasted chestnuts.

Although I had a tray full of roasted chestnuts, there was not enough there for the chestnut chiffon cake recipe I wanted to try, so I supplemented it with tinned chestnuts too.

Canned chestnuts (left) and roasted fresh chestnuts (right).

The sponge came out beautifully, though it did not rise much, presumably because I used baking paper, and did not invert the cake after baking.

Chestnut chiffon cake.

I used the fresh chestnuts in the lighter whipped cream topping, and the canned chestnuts in the intensely dark and delicious caramelly filling (enhanced with a nut flavoured liqueur).

Mixing chestnut cream.

I need to work on my technique a bit as the final cake was on the dense side, but the flavours were worth the effort!

A slice of chestnut chiffon cake.


Cake Attempt #2: Taro Chiffon Cake

Making a taro cake is a lot easier, because you can simply buy frozen taro from your local Asian grocer and steam it—it's not such a fiddly process as boiling, roasting and shelling fresh chestnuts.

Mashing steamed taro.

I used a Japanese chiffon cake recipe, and Eupho Cafe's taro filling (minus the coffee creamer). The chiffon cake came out very springy, but I found its flavour overwhelmingly eggy.

Japanese chiffon cake.

The taro filling was lumpy and solid when I first mixed it, but once I put it into the food processor for a few minutes, it turned into a smooth and fluffy spread.

Taro filling, smooth filling on top, lumpy filling at the bottom.

If it weren't for the strong egg flavour in the sponge, this would have been an excellent cake!

Cake Attempt #3: Durian Cake

In an attempt to reduce the egginess of the cake, I tried making an angel food cake, which only uses egg whites. Unfortunately, I lined the bottom of the pan with a circle of baking paper this time, and it made a crater when the cake was turned upside down.

Curved bottom of angel food cake.

It was also cloyingly sweet, though it did have a very soft and light texture. I ended up chopping it into cubes, coating it in dark chocolate, and palming it off to workmates.

Levelling the bottom of the cake.

Next, I tried Nasi Lemak Lover's Vanilla Sponge Cake. It had me baking the cake for over an hour, which was a lot longer than some other recipes, though admittedly at a lower temperature and for a higher volume of batter. The top of the cake split, and the outside seemed to have browned too much, so it was a bit dry and overcooked.

Overcooked cake.

I tried the recipe again, this time lowering the temperature at the end, turning the oven off altogether for the last 10 minutes. It rose promisingly high...

Cake rose high.

... but still cracked after further baking.

Flattened and cracked.

Although I turned it upside down for cooling, it actually shrank upwards (away from the bench), and ended up being pretty dark as well. The taste and texture of the sponge were pretty much perfect once I cut away the unsightly parts though.

Cake shrank on cooling.

With the chiffon sorted, I mixed up my own durian filling using about half a frozen durian (it takes a good few hours to thaw!) and about the same amount of sweetened whipped cream. I should have used a bit more sugar to bring out the flavour of the durian, but it seemed fine on its own, and I forgot to take into account the fact that the sponge part was not very sweet either.

Creamy flesh of thawed frozen durian.

I decorated the cake with whipped cream mixed with a bit of milk powder and icing sugar, and also added some slices of dried durian candy. Not the most beautiful of creations, but you'll love this if you like the aroma of durian!

My durian chiffon cake,

Cake Attempt #4: Mango Chiffon Cake

For my final cake, I made a mango chiffon cake with a layer of pudding mix in the middle, as well as custard (okay, maybe pastry cream is more accurate) and tinned mangoes.

I used the same chiffon recipe as before, but placed a piece of foil over the pan to protect the top of the cake once it started browning. I didn't get the same splitting and dark colouring I saw earlier, but it still sank even after being cooled upside down.

Some sinking in my chiffon.

Once you slice the top off, it doesn't really matter anymore though!

Chiffon cake, sliced horizontally.

I added less water to the mango flavoured pudding mix than instructed, so that it would have a more intense fragrance, but it was very sweet, so I thinned it out a bit again. I poured the liquid into a springform cake tin lined with baking paper, which wrinkled up from the moisture, as you can see in the picture below. After refrigeration, it set into a very slippery round of jelly which smelt more mangoey than real mangoes themselves.

Jelly-like mango pudding layer.

Although the jelly sat on top of the cake layer with no problems, the next layer (pastry cream with mango pieces which I dolloped on top) threatened to slide right off.

Pastry cream and mango layer on top of the pudding layer.

Indeed, that is exactly what happened, after the cake was transported to a restaurant, put in the fridge, and taken out again at the end of our meal. The entire top half of the cake shifted slideways, making it look like a spectacularly chaotic heap.

Top half of the cake slid to one side.

Looks aside, the cake tasted better than I expected, thanks in no small part to the Asian mango pudding mix, which also added an interesting texture contrasting with the softness of the cream and the sponginess of the chiffon. Thanks, artificial flavours and colours!

A very thin but tasty slice of mango chiffon cake.



This post is part of Our Growing Edge, a monthly blogging event aimed at inspiring us to try new things. This month, it is hosted by Pia from Joie de Vivre and Cupcakes, with the theme "party with friends".
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